Mt. Kanchenjunga 8586m.
Mount Kanchanjunga; Standing at 8586m Kanchanjunga is the third highest peak in the world and the second highest in Nepal. It was first climbed by a British team in 1956. The peak consists of four summits. The west summit, Yalung Kang, 8420m high, and some people classify it as a
separate 8000m peak.
The first westerner to explore Kanchanjunga was a British botanist J.D. Hooker, who visited the area twice in 1848 and 1849. Exploration from the Sikkim side of the peak was continued by the British explorers mapping and photographing until 1899. In that year a party led by Douglas Fresh Field made a circuit of Kanchanjunga and produced what is still one of the most authentic maps of the region.
Exploration continued, mostly from the Sikkim side, starting from Darjeeling in British India.
One of the major contributors to Western knowledge about the region was Dr. A.M Kellas, who later died in Tibet during the approach of the 1921 Everest expedition. German expeditions attempted on several occasion to the peak like 1929, 1930 and again in 1931, but all failed . When the Sikkim entrance was closed, Nepal entrance was still open, a team in 1955 led by Dr. Charl as Evans approached the peak via the Yalung Glacier.
The Japanese then took up the challenge and mounted expeditions in 1967, 1973 and 1974.
When they had climbed Yalung Kang, a German Expedition climbed Yalung Kang in 1975, and an Indian army team also mounted the second successful expeditions to the main peak of mount Kanchanjunga.
Itinerary
Day 0 1 Arrival in Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel (1,350m)
Day 02 Day sightseeing & briefing about expedition
Day 03 Rest in Kathmandu: Expedition briefing and Preparation In Ministry of Tourism
Day 04 Fly from Kathmandu to Bhadrapur and Drive to Phidim
Day 05 Drive from Phidim to Khandenba by Jeep
Day 06 Trek from Khandenba to Khewang (1,740m) : Camping
Day 07 Trek from Khewang to Yamphudin (2,080m) : Camping
Day 08 Acclimatization in Yamphudin (rest day) : Camping
Day 09 Trek from Yamphudin to Tortong (2,995m) : Camping
Day 10 Trek from Tortong to Tseram (3,870m) : Camping
Day 11 Trek from Tseram to Ramche (4,580m) : 3 more nights : Camping
Day 12 Acclimatization in Ramche (rest day) : Camping
Day 13 Acclimatization in Ramche (rest day) : Camping
Day 14 Trek from Ramche to Glacier Camp (4,890m) : Camping
Day 15 Trek from Glacier Camp to Pangpema (Kanchenjunga Basecamp – 5,143m) : Camping
Day 15 – 45 : Climbing Period [Basecamp – Kanchenjung Summit (8,586m) – Basecamp]
Day 46 Trek from Basecamp to Ramche : Camping
Day 47 Trek from Ramche to Tortong : Camping
Day 48 Trek from Tortong to Yamphudin : Camping
Day 49 Trek from Yamphudin to Khewang : Camping
Day 50 Trek from Khewang to Khandenba
Day 51 Drive from Khandenba to Kathmandu at Hotel .
Day 52 City Sightseeing and rest day.
Day 53 Final departure to home country.
Trip related Info
Please contact us by email or call us for Expedition cost:
Climbing Route:
The access trek from Suketar to the Base camp is also interesting due to its remoteness, the cultures inhibiting the area and a very rare endemic flora with 30 varieties of rhododendrons and 62 varieties of orchids. In Kanchenjunga Expedition the North Face route is definitely the safest,
although not the easiest. Climb of Kanchenjunga begin from a charming base camp in the meadows of Panorama at 5,180 m. First challenge is to fix lines up 900 m of intricate mixed climbing to the North col. This provides the most challenging climbing of the expedition. Once creating a lifeline to and from the North Col you can begin the long process of establishing three
camps up the long and complicated North ridge. Using Sherpa support and oxygen, you can move at a systematically slow velocity higher and higher up the mountain. This is a highly satisfying climb for the expert Climbers.
Kanchenjunga Expedition Base Camp Service:
Pisang Peak Trekking Pvt. Ltd. provides very professional, supportive and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to ensure a good quality, supportive, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, and climbing documentation, travelling logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC we organize logistics for
provision of all required accommodation and food. In the Base camp our cook and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and
plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.
In the Base Camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only.
In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff. We also have a comprehensive First Aid Kit available to our clients.
In the Base Camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, and solar panels to charge your batteries
Kanchenjunga Expedition Full Board Service:
For full board clients we provide personal tent and food, which will be prepared in high camps by their climbing Sherpa. We provide UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Full board with us means a provision of a personal climbing Sherpa to each individual climber, who will help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 1, camp 2 and camp 3 and required bivvy including food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guide and assist the client on the summit day. There are no commercial expeditions on
Kanchenjunga so your climbing Sherpa with cooperation of other clients climbing Sherpas will
set-up fixed ropes to North Col.
Approaches to ABC:
There are two Base Camps to climb Kanchenjunga, Kanchenjunga North Base Camp on Kanchenjunga Glacier and South Base Camp on Yalung Glacier. The access to both camps is from Suketar (2400m), the town with closest airport to the mountain with flights to Kathmandu. Suketar is also last town accessible from Kathmandu by the road. The route from North Base Camp via the North Col is the Normal route. It is not the easiest by it is the safest route with least objective danger.
Kanchenjunga is the most remote of all 8000m peaks in Nepal, and the trek to the North Base camp from Suketar takes about 11 days along Ghunsa Khola valley; it is 80km long gradual hike from 900m to 5100m, so it is a very nice way to relax and acclimatize to start the climb on the strong foot. Suketar is located at 2400m, so first day is a long downhill of 1500m, which has to be climbed on the return way.
Climbing Routes:
The normal route via North Col and North face is definitely the safest but it is technical climbing. It will definitely not be suitable for an inexperienced climber but it is a delight for technical climber. The scenery is phenomenal all the way from the Base Camp overlooking the Kanchenjunga glacier, Kanchenjunga I and Kang Bachen. The climb is challenging but very interesting. The most difficult section is to the North Col of
about 500m of mixed ice and rock climb, where our climbing Sherpas will establish fixed rope route from just above 6500m to 7000m on the Col, a bee-line to take gear up safely. Once on the North Col the climb is along the ridge and the North face. The climb becomes less technical but very exposed to the weather. From the Col the climb is typically done with 3 camps or bivvies moving up slowly to the summit.
** Trip dates are approximate. Fall expeditions typically begin around August 30 and end around November 1. Actual trip departure date to be announced 125 days prior to your expedition.
Summit bonus to your private Sherpa guide if approached to the summit (Minimum US$ 1000.00)
Tips to Base Camp Staffs (Mandatory minimum US$ 200.00 per Member in Total)
COST INCLUDES:
*Airport transportation as per your arrival date to join the expedition
*Standard hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B plan
*Kathmandu Lukla Kathmandu airfare as per the expedition itinerary
*Summiteers climbing Sherpa climber: 2 climbing member 1 Sherpa to maximize the chance to scale it *Group climbing gears like rope, ice bar etc for the expeditions.
*Expedition climbing permit and all government taxes.
* National park permit fee for the expedition.
*Full board high altitude meal while trekking to base camp and climbing
*Liaison officer with all his expenses while on expedition.
*Expedition manager, Expedition cook, support crew and porters with their equipment’s, daily wages, *food, insurance etc.
*All necessary camping and kitchen equipment provided that includes base camp tents, dining tent with *table and chair, kitchen tent with all utensil, toilet tent with commode. *Mountain Hardware high altitude tents while climbing the expedition *Emergency Oxygen with regulator and mask while on expeditions.
*EPI gas and burner for high climb;
*Gamow bag / Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC)
*All necessary climbing hardware group equipment
* We provide Yaks and Porters for transportation. (2 Trekkers: 1Porter) Maximum load 20 kg per porter.
Almost all the required equipment’s are also readily available for hire or purchase.
COST EXCLUDE
Medical and personal high risk insurance
Nepal entry visa fees meal in Kathmandu, Lunch & Dinner
Personal equipment and climbing gears.
International airfare and airport tax
Climbing Bonus, tips and personal nature expenses.
Custom charge for Satellite Sat phone, Walkie- Talkie communication equipment
Commercial filming while on
Ama Dablam expedition.
Helicopter risqué charge.
